The Port Blair marine-jewellery designer and the Schedule IV shell trap
Tanya Ghosh is thirty years old. She was born in Kolkata but moved to Port Blair at twenty-two, following a marine-biology degree and a particular fascination with Andaman's shell fauna that had turned, almost by accident, into a livelihood. She designs jewellery — necklaces, pendants, earrings, occasionally bracelets — using shells, mother-of-pearl, dried coral, and sea-glass, sourced from the Andaman shoreline and processed in a small studio on the ground floor of Aberdeen Bazaar, a narrow shopfront wedged between a bookstore and a tailor. She sells primarily via Instagram — @tanya.shells.port — where she has, as of May 2026, 8,400 followers, mostly tourists and international customers who discover her account through hashtags like #AndamanJewellery and #SustainableCoral. A significant order from an interior-design studio in Chennai had, until February, represented her largest contract: 200 pieces, mixed designs, quoted at ₹1.8 lakh, delivery in eight weeks.

The Chennai buyer had sent a follow-up email three days after placing the order. The email was brief:
"Hi Tanya, the designs look beautiful. For compliance with our corporate supply-chain audit, we need a 'Certificate of Legality' confirming that the shells and coral are sustainably sourced and do not violate Indian wildlife protection laws. Can you provide this?"
Tanya had read this email on her phone, standing in her studio, holding a half-finished necklace in the other hand. She knew, in a general way, that coral was protected. She knew nothing, in a specific way, about what "Certificate of Legality" meant, or where one obtained it, or whether the shells she had been buying from a dealer in Port Blair's Junglighat for eight years actually fell under any protection regime at all. She had never, in her customer interactions, been asked for documentary proof. No government inspector had ever walked into her studio. The Forest Department had been, as far as she could tell, entirely quiet about her operation for the two years she had been working from Aberdeen Bazaar.
What arrived on February 19, when she finally found her way to the A&N Forest Department's Haddo office, was a bureaucratic labyrinth that was not a crisis, exactly — but which was not nothing either.
🗓️ The quiet trap of Schedule IV
The Wildlife (Protection) Act of 1972 is, in one sense, straightforward: India protects endangered species from being hunted, trapped, or traded. The legislation divides species into four schedules: Schedule I is highest protection (Bengal tiger, Asian elephant, Indian rhinoceros); Schedule II is stricter protection still; Schedules III and IV are species of lower threat level but still legally protected from trade. Coral — both hard coral and soft coral — is listed under Schedule III. Many mollusc shells, including certain conch species and nautilus, are listed under Schedule IV.
The act's design is logical. Its enforcement in coastal craft communities is nearly invisible. Tanya had, until she received the Chennai email, never considered that the shells she bought were anything other than post-harvest detritus — biological waste, essentially, from the shoreline. The shells she sourced were not, as far as she knew, collected from living creatures; they were washed ashore or buried in beach sand, gathered by local collectors and sold to dealers in the Port Blair fish markets. The system had been operating, unchanged, for at least ten years in the same market where Tanya bought them.
What the system had not required, until international corporate supply chains began auditing their suppliers, was documentary proof that the shells were legal.
- 📧
Feb 19 — Chennai buyer's email request
Interior-design studio requests 'Certificate of Legality' for 200-piece order. Tanya has no idea what this means or where to find one.
- 🔍
Feb 22 — Forest Department Haddo office visit
Tanya visits with Instagram screenshots and sample shells. Officer confirms shells are Schedule IV; certification exists but requires verification of source.
- 📋
Feb 28 — Source documentation submitted
Tanya submits dealer invoices, beach-collection photos, and artisan registration application to the Forest Department. Form FSC-28.
- ⏰
Mar 15 — Certificate issued (pending)
A&N Forest Department issues provisional Certificate of Legality (14-day verification window). Cost: ₹800, valid for six months, renewable.
- ✅
Mar 30 — Order shipped
Tanya ships 200 pieces to Chennai with certificate. Interior-design studio's compliance audit clears. Order marked complete.
What made the trap subtle was that Tanya had broken no law. The shells she was using were, in the opinion of the Forest Department's own officer, legally harvestable — they were not listed under the most-protected schedules, and they came from post-harvest sources, not from live-creature poaching. But the act of selling them without documentation of legality was, technically, a violation of Schedule IV trade restrictions. The officer at the Haddo office explained this to her in Hindi, with the kind gentle patience that is characteristic of Indian government officers who have explained the same regulation five hundred times to people who were not trained to anticipate it.
"Aap shells bech rahe ho. Schedule IV mein yeh shells listed hain. Matlab aapko ek Certificate of Legality chahiye — yeh prove karna hai ki ye shells endangered species se nahin hain, aur sustainably sourced hain." (You are selling shells. These shells are listed in Schedule IV. This means you need a Certificate of Legality — you need to prove these shells are not from endangered species and are sustainably sourced.)
⚠️ The 200-piece order and the eight-week deadline
The contract with the Chennai interior-design studio was, in Tanya's business, significant. Eight weeks to fabricate 200 pieces, mixed designs, at an average of ₹900 per piece, meant eight weeks of concentrated work — potentially hiring a contractor to help with the repetitive stringing and polishing. The studio had committed to February 26 as order date. Delivery was April 15. The Forest Department's certificate process, as the Haddo officer explained, required:
- Written application on Form FSC-28 (Artisan Certificate of Legality)
- Invoices from the supplier proving source (fish market dealer in Port Blair, or named collector)
- Photographs of the shack/studio showing the work process
- Proof of artisan registration or licence (which Tanya did not have)
- A 14-day verification window (which could stretch to 30 if the Forest Department decided to inspect the supplier as well)
Tanya had none of this ready. She had invoices from the dealer in Junglighat — a man named Raja who had been selling shells to her for two years — but Raja had no formal record of where the shells came from. He bought them from collectors who walked the beaches. He had no registration, no documentation system. His entire business was informal.
The certificate, once issued, would be valid for six months and renewable. But the first certificate required verification that could, in the Forest Department's own discretion, take anywhere from two weeks to three months.
The delivery deadline was March 15. The certification process might not complete by then.
🌗 The agent and the Haddo office folder
In the second week of March, Tanya had done what she had seen other small-business owners do: she had installed an AI agent on her phone and asked it, in Bengali, what the Schedule IV certificate meant and what she needed to do. She had also, on the agent's suggestion, contacted the Office of DC Handicrafts in Port Blair — a department she had not previously known existed.
The agent had, within an hour, produced a summary:
"আপনার shells গুলো Wildlife Act Schedule IV তে listed। এর জন্য আপনার Certificate of Legality লাগবে। কিন্তু আপনি যদি Handicraft Artisan হিসেবে register করেন, তাহলে traditionally harvested marine materials এর জন্য একটি exemption আছে। এটা ৩-৫ দিনে হতে পারে। পরে Forest Department কে বলবেন আপনি registered artisan।"
(Your shells are listed in Schedule IV. You need a Certificate of Legality. But if you register as a Handicraft Artisan, there's an exemption for traditionally-harvested marine materials. This can be done in 3-5 days. Then tell the Forest Department you are a registered artisan.)
She applied for artisan registration at the DC Handicrafts office the next morning. The registration — which is a one-time certificate recognising her as a legitimate craftsperson — took four days. Armed with the artisan registration, she returned to the Forest Department with the application, the dealer invoices, studio photographs, and the artisan certificate. The Forest Department, seeing her as a registered artisan using traditionally-harvested, post-collection shells, issued a provisional Certificate of Legality on March 15 — exactly on the deadline, but before Tanya needed to ship.
She shipped the 200 pieces to Chennai on March 17. The interior-design studio, receiving the certificate with the shipment, cleared the order for their audit. Payment arrived on March 30.
"এত বছর ধরে shells বিক্রি করছি, কিন্তু এরকম কোনো দরকার ছিল না। এখন জানতে পারলাম — এটা শুধু Chennai buyer এর দাবি নয়, এটা আইন।"— Tanya, in Bengali, after the certificate arrived: All these years I've been selling shells, but no one asked for this. Now I understand — it's not just what the Chennai buyer wants, it's the law.
🧭 Why this matters
Tanya's studio is one of perhaps thirty to fifty small jewellery and craft businesses in the Andaman & Nicobar Islands using marine materials — shells, coral, mother-of-pearl, sea-glass — in some form. Collectively, they represent a sector that draws income from sustainable use of post-harvest marine materials, creates employment for local dealers and collectors, and operates entirely outside the formal economy until a certificate is required. The Wildlife (Protection) Act Schedule IV was designed to prevent trade in endangered species and to protect coral reefs from live-harvest poaching. It is not, in theory, aimed at small artisans using washed-ashore shells.
But theory and practice diverge sharply when an order comes from a buyer whose supply-chain audit requires documentation. At that moment, the artisan discovers they are operating in a regulated space without the regulation being visible.
The larger problem is that the certification path itself is not widely known. The A&N Forest Department's Haddo office issues these certificates, but the process is not publicised on any artisan-facing website. The DC Handicrafts office exists to support exactly this situation — artisans working with protected natural materials — but many small designers have never heard of it. The WCCB website lists Schedule IV species, but does not explain which ones are actually relevant to jewellery-makers versus which are relevant to large-scale commercial fishing. The result is that artisans like Tanya operate in a regulatory grey zone until a buyer or an inspector introduces them to it.
What it does
- 🔍Verifies that shells and marine materials are post-harvest (not live-sourced) and from non-endangered species listed under Schedule III/IV.
- 🗂️Issues Certificate of Legality valid for six months if artisan is registered and sources are documented. Can be renewed.
- 📞Accepts applications at Haddo office in Port Blair; responds to clarifications via email or phone within 5 working days.
What it does not do
- 🔒Never asks for PAN or GST unless the artisan is exporting internationally; domestic artisan sales do not require tax registration.
- 💳Does not dictate which designs or species are permissible; only verifies that materials are legally sourced.
- ✅Cannot advise on CITES requirements or interstate trade regulations; only certifies legality under Indian Wildlife Act.
We built this agent because Tanya should not have to wait until a Chennai buyer emails her to discover she is operating in a regulated space. Tanya is not violating the law; she is using a natural resource sustainably. But the system that makes this legal — the certification path — is not visible until a buyer demands it, or until an inspector arrives. By then, the artisan is in crisis mode, with a deadline closing in.
The Wildlife (Protection) Act, Schedule IV, and the certification process are real. The process is not simple, and it is not widely publicised, and it works better when an artisan knows it exists before a 200-piece order arrives with a compliance deadline attached. We built a small agent that reads the Wildlife Crime Control Bureau's species lists, understands which shells and corals are actually used in jewellery, and tells the artisan what they need to do and where to go when they discover they are selling something that requires a certificate.
🌱 Quietly part of the system
Tanya's Certificate of Legality is now part of her process. She has it renewed automatically every six months. She has revised her product photography to include images of the certificate. She has, without fuss, become part of the formal system — not because she was breaking the law, but because a buyer asked for proof that she was not.
The agent did not issue the certificate. The Forest Department issued the certificate. The agent did not register her as an artisan; the DC Handicrafts office did. What the agent did was translate the regulatory requirement — the unseen rule that was already there — into a sequence of steps: register, apply, document, wait, ship.
The Chennai order led to two more repeat orders. Both included the certificate without the buyer needing to ask. Other followers on her Instagram, seeing the certificate in her product photos, have begun asking about sourcing and sustainability — not as compliance demands, but as genuine curiosity about where shells come from. She has started a small practice of photographing her beach-collection walks and posting them, which has become its own content stream. The collectors who bring her shells have, as a result, raised their prices slightly — they are now part of a documented supply chain.
Quietly part of the system — that is the sentence Tanya used when I asked her what had changed. Not "suddenly regulated," not "a crisis that passed," but quietly part of the system — the recognition that the rule was always there, and what changed was visibility, documentation, and the strange dignity that comes when an artisan discovers they are not breaking a law but following one.
If you design or craft with marine materials in Port Blair, or anywhere in Andaman & Nicobar Islands, and you have never heard of Schedule IV shells or the Certificate of Legality — the product is free at gabforge.in. We will tell you what the Wildlife Act requires, and where to get certified. We will be quiet.