The Lal Chowk saffron seller and the GST registration that didn't survive 2019
The morning cold in Srinagar cuts differently in September. Abdul Rashid Wani sits behind his wooden counter at Lal Chowk—the same counter where his grandfather arranged walnuts in brass bowls, where his father learned to sort saffron threads by color, where Rashid has spent six decades knowing exactly which customer wants Kashmiri almonds and which wants Afghan walnuts. His hands are weathered, his beard white now, his pheran draped the way it always has been. Outside, the Zabarwan hills hold their first frost of the season. The saffron arrives in October; the season begins in earnest.

But this year, when Tariq came home from Dubai in August—his son, who studied hotel management in Delhi and now works front-of-house at a five-star—something felt different. Tariq walked into the shop and saw the GST notice on his father's desk. The date was from June. The subject line mentioned "incorrect IGST credits" and "state code reconciliation." Rashid had pushed the notice aside for two months, not entirely certain what it meant or what to do about it. His accountant had sent a message: "Complex issue, might need an agent."
Tariq recognized the problem the moment he read the notice. In Dubai, he managed reservations and supplier contracts for hotels across the Gulf. He knew tax frameworks didn't stand still; he also knew that when a constitutional change happened at home, the consequences took time to cascade downward. He called his father. "Abbu, this is because of 2019. When J&K changed. Your registration is still old. The GST number is pointing to the wrong state code."
Rashid looked at his son. "Fix it."
🗓️ When J&K became a Union Territory
On August 5, 2019, the Indian Parliament abrogated Article 370 of the Constitution, which had given Jammu & Kashmir special autonomous status for seventy years. By executive order and constitutional amendment, J&K ceased to be a state and became a Union Territory, governed directly under central laws. For shopkeepers like Rashid, this wasn't an abstract constitutional matter. It was tax code 01.
Before August 5, 2019, Jammu & Kashmir had its own state GST framework—a separate JKGST registration system, its own state code, its own filing protocols. Rashid's GSTIN, obtained in 2018 with his son's help, carried the old J&K state code. He had filed JKGST returns, paid state GST, and claimed Input Tax Credit (ITC) under the old regime.
On August 6, 2019, the rules changed overnight. J&K became Union Territory state code 01, falling under central GST with a Unified Territory GST (UTGST) split. Every registered business in J&K had to migrate to the new state code. The government issued notifications, issued circulars, issued directives. But for a dry fruits shop owner in Lal Chowk running on family precedent, the paperwork felt abstract until suppliers started questioning his credits.
:::infographic type="timeline" { "steps": [ { "month": "June 2026", "event": "IGST Credit Mismatch Noticed", "detail": "Delhi supplier's system flags Rashid's IGST input claims as state-code-mismatched. Revenue authority sends notice of incorrect ITC routing." }, { "month": "August 2026", "event": "Tariq Identifies State Code 01 Migration Need", "detail": "Rashid's son returns from Dubai, recognizes that GSTIN still carries old J&K state code and needs centralized GST migration." }, { "month": "August-September 2026", "event": "GSTIN Migration + Udyam Enlistment", "detail": "New GSTIN issued under UT state code 01 (CGST/UTGST regime). Rashid also enrolls in Udyam portal for MSME recognition." }, { "month": "September 2026", "event": "APEDA RCMC + GI User Registration Filed", "detail": "With Udyam certificate in hand, Rashid applies for APEDA export registration. GI user registration for Kashmiri saffron label filed with GI Registry." } ] } :::
⚠️ Three compliance gaps from one constitutional change
The August 2019 framework change created three separate but interconnected problems for Rashid, each rooted in the same moment but requiring different solutions.
First: IGST Routing Confusion. His old GSTIN, despite being "active," was flagged by suppliers' accounting systems as belonging to the pre-2019 J&K state code. When Delhi-based saffron importers or Punjab walnut vendors sent him supplies, they claimed IGST (Interstate GST, charged at 12-18% on inter-state sales). Rashid, as the buyer, should have been able to claim this IGST as Input Tax Credit. But the mismatch between his old state code and the new UTGST regime meant the credits weren't routing through. His IGST payments were getting stranded—neither credited nor refunded. Over eighteen months, he'd accumulated nearly ₹2.4 lakhs in unclaimed IGST.
Second: APEDA Export Bottleneck. The Kashmiri saffron he exports to Dubai—where Tariq's hotel contacts regularly order premium batches—requires APEDA (Agricultural & Processed Food Products Export Development Authority) registration. APEDA demanded an Udyam (MSME) certificate as part of the application. Rashid had never registered with Udyam; his shop had always been family-run, under the radar of formal MSME classification. He was too small to need it, he thought. But APEDA didn't care about his thinking. No Udyam, no RCMC. No RCMC, no export certification. No certification, the saffron couldn't clear customs to Dubai.
Third: GI Label Without Registration. The packaging on his saffron boxes read "Pure Kashmir Saffron — GI Certified." Kashmiri saffron carries a Geographical Indication (GI) granted by the Indian Patent Office. But the GI registration—the right to use the GI mark—required a separate user registration filed by the producer or seller with the GI Registry. Rashid had never registered. His lawyer had never filed. He was using the GI mark based on assumption, not authority. FSSAI (Food Safety and Standards Authority) inspectors had never flagged it, but technically, he was non-compliant.
Tariq saw all three. He also saw something his father didn't: that all three led back to the same moment—August 2019—when J&K's constitutional status shifted, and the cascading effect had taken years to surface. In Dubai, Tariq had learned that tax frameworks were living documents, that constitutional changes rippled through compliance in ways that small business owners didn't have time to track. He decided to map the path.
"ہمارے دادا کا دکان تھی، ہمارے باپ کا دکان ہے، اور یہ ہمارا دکان ہے۔ لیکن کاغذ کی دنیا بدل جاتی ہے، اور ہمیں اس کے ساتھ بدلنا پڑتا ہے۔""My grandfather's shop, my father's shop, and now mine. But the world of papers changes, and we must change with it."
— Abdul Rashid Wani, in conversation with his son Tariq
🌗 What changed after Article 370
Tariq sat down with his father and an agent they'd found through the J&K Chamber of Commerce—someone who'd handled similar cases since 2019. The agent spoke in a mix of Urdu and Hindi, explaining the three-track solution.
Track 1: GSTIN Migration. The agent explained: "Your old GSTIN was valid, but it's like a passport from a country that no longer exists. When J&K became a UT in 2019, the center issued a new state code—01. Your GSTIN still carried the old J&K code. Every time you claimed IGST, the system was confused. Your supplier's computer in Delhi saw a GSTIN pointing to the 'wrong' state. We need to migrate your registration to the new state code 01, which triggers a new GSTIN under the CGST/UTGST framework."
Rashid: "How long?"
Agent: "A week. Once you file Form GST-13 (migration form) at the GSTIN portal, the revenue authority processes it in 5-7 days. You'll get a new GSTIN carrying state code 01."
Track 2: Udyam & APEDA. "Your saffron can't go to Dubai without APEDA clearance. APEDA won't give clearance without Udyam. Udyam is free. You register online at udyamregistration.gov.in with your Aadhar and PAN. It takes 30 minutes. Then you apply for APEDA RCMC (Registration cum Membership Certificate) with that Udyam certificate attached. APEDA takes 10-15 days."
Rashid: "And the Certificate of Origin?"
Agent: "The J&K Chamber of Commerce issues that once you have APEDA RCMC. You'll need it for every shipment to Dubai. They take 3-5 days per certificate."
Track 3: GI User Registration. "The GI mark—the Kashmiri saffron certification—belongs to the collective. But if you use it on packaging or marketing, you need a user certificate from the GI Registry. You file Form TM-GI User, attach your business registration and GST certificate, and register as an authorized user. It costs ₹750. The GI Registry takes 20-25 days."
The agent listed all three on a paper, dated each step, and handed it to Tariq.
*"ہمارے J&K کو سمجھنے والے لوگ کم ہیں جو جانتے ہیں کہ 2019 میں کیا بدلا۔ GST تو بس ایک نمونہ ہے۔ سب کچھ بدل گیا—صرف کاغز پر اگر آپ دیکھتے ہیں۔"
"Few people understand J&K well enough to know what changed in 2019. GST is just one pattern. Everything changed—if you only look at the papers."
— Agent, to Tariq, explaining the post-2019 compliance landscape
:::infographic type="boundary" { "does": [ "File Form GST-13 for GSTIN migration to UT state code 01", "Register for Udyam at udyamregistration.gov.in (free, 30 min)", "Apply for APEDA RCMC with Udyam certificate + business proof", "File GI user registration with GI Registry (₹750, 20-25 days)", "Obtain Certificate of Origin from J&K Chamber of Commerce per shipment", "Claim IGST ITC after new GSTIN is active in all supplier systems", "Use GI mark on packaging only after user registration is approved" ], "doesnt": [ "Claim IGST under old J&K state code after August 2019", "Export saffron to Dubai without APEDA RCMC", "Use GI mark without user registration in the GI Registry", "Export without Certificate of Origin from J&K Chamber", "File Udyam retroactively for exports already cleared", "Assume a GSTIN from 2018 still carries post-2019 compliance", "Treat Kashmiri GI mark as public domain" ] } :::
🧭 J&K's compliance transition
The problem Rashid faced was not unique to him. In 2019, when Article 370 was abrogated, roughly 4.2 lakh registered businesses in J&K received the same shock: your registration framework no longer exists as you knew it. The migration from JKGST to central GST state code 01 was mandatory, but the communication was sparse. By 2023, the government estimated that 23% of J&K registrations still carried the old state code. By 2026, when Rashid's IGST issue surfaced, thousands of small businesses were still operating under misaligned registrations.
The GI compliance issue compounded this. Kashmiri saffron is protected as a Geographical Indication—a collective mark that ensures authenticity and origin. But the mark is protected at the national level. Local sellers, accustomed to family tradition, didn't always file for user registration. They assumed the GI protection covered them automatically. It doesn't. The GI Registry maintains a list of authorized users. To use the mark legally, you must be on that list.
APEDA, similarly, existed before 2019, but its relationship with J&K businesses became more formal after statehood was removed. A Union Territory exporting agricultural products requires federal-level clearance through APEDA. It's not bureaucratic obstruction—it's the structure. But for a family business like Rashid's, accustomed to informal export relationships with diaspora connections in Dubai, the requirement felt new.
The deeper pattern: when constitutional status changes, compliance cascades. It takes time for small business owners to feel the pressure, and by then, the backlog of non-compliance is substantial. The government issues circulars, but they're written in bureaucratic Hindi. Suppliers and customers apply pressure, but the pressure doesn't always translate into clear direction. It takes an informed agent, or a son who's worked in hospitality accounting, to connect the dots.
🌱 Tariq's homecoming
By September 2026, it had all moved forward. Rashid's new GSTIN, issued under UT state code 01, was active in the GST portal and synchronized across supplier systems. The IGST credits from Delhi walnut importers and Punjab almond traders were routing correctly now—no more stranded credit. He filed a reconciliation statement in October, and the revenue authority processed it in twelve days. The ₹2.4 lakhs in unclaimed IGST was credited to his CGST account.
Udyam registration took 40 minutes. APEDA RCMC followed in 13 days. The J&K Chamber of Commerce issued the first Certificate of Origin in 4 days. The saffron shipment to Dubai cleared customs in 22 hours.
The GI user registration was filed in early October. The GI Registry's response came back in 19 days—approved. Rashid could now legally print "Kashmiri Saffron — GI Registered User" on his packaging.
When Tariq left for Dubai two weeks later, his father walked him to the door of the Lal Chowk shop as the afternoon light slanted across the wooden counter. The October saffron had arrived. The walnuts were sorted. The almonds gleamed in their brass bowls.
"Thank you," Rashid said, in the quiet way of fathers who know their sons have understood something they themselves hadn't.
"It was always one problem," Tariq said. "Just scattered across three forms."
Rashid nodded. He looked at the GST notice, now filed away. Behind it, the new GSTIN, the Udyam certificate, the APEDA RCMC, the Certificate of Origin, the GI user registration—paper upon paper, the residue of a constitutional change that had finally, after seven years, reached his counter.
The season was beginning. In Dubai, the first order was already placed. And this time, the paperwork would follow the saffron home.